Paris’ 17th arrondissement: local village vibes in the capital

The 17th arrondissement is quickly becoming one of the most popular areas to live in Paris. It offers a balanced lifestyle, with village-like neighborhoods, excellent dining, and a little elegance, while still largely affordable. 

It’s well connected, and overall just a very livable arrondissement. The 17th is ideal for those who want an authentic, local Parisian experience without the overwhelming tourist crush of the city center. 

But while it’s a great fit for many, it’s not perfect for everyone. This article helps unpack who’s likely to enjoy life in the 17th, and who might prefer to look elsewhere. 

About the 17th arrondissement

The 17th arrondissement is a mix of business and residential. The south-west end side is full of offices, close to commuter hub Saint-Lazare and adjacent to the 8th arrondissement—one of Paris’ foremost business hubs. 

But certain stretches also have a quiet, village-like vibe. Batignolles is fast becoming a trendy hamlet, with its quiet streets and excellent cafés, restaurants, and markets. 

The 17th also includes Place de Clichy, right at the edge of the Pigalle nightlife, close to the Moulin Rouge, and heaving with bars and evening activity. This gives yet another flavor to this interesting and diverse neighborhood.    

Moulin Rouge

Where is the 17th arrondissement? 

The borders of the 17th are as follows: 

• Boulevard Périphérique to the north-west and north
• Avenue de la Porte de Saint-Ouen, Avenue de Saint-Ouen, and Avenue de Clichy to the east
• Boulevard des Batignolles and Boulevard de Courcelles to the south
• Avenue de la Grande Armée to the south-west

What are the main highlights of the 17th arrondissement?

The 17th has relatively few of the big-name attractions Paris is famous for. Here, you’ll find: 

• The Arc de Triomphe, shared with the 8th and 16th arrondissements.
• Palais des Congrès convention center. 
• Square des Batignolles and Parc Clichy-Batignolles - Martin Luther King, two lovely urban parks. 
• Place de Clichy, a busy area not far from the Moulin Rouge. 
• Musée National Jean-Jacques Henner, and the Cité de l’Économie, which showcases coins, banknotes, and economic history.

It’s a residential area, and the appeal is much more about living here than checking out the sights.

Arc de Triomphe

The best reasons to live in the 17th arrondissement

Ask anyone who has recently moved to the 17th, and they’ll tell you they’re thrilled with the choice. Here are a few reasons why it might appeal to you, too.

You have a growing family

The Batignolles area has quickly become popular with young families. It’s likely the combination of (relatively) affordable housing, and handy location—close to business centers like Saint-Lazare, La Défense, and Grands Boulevards. 

You’ll see plenty of young professional couples pushing strollers through the parks and lining up for coffee on the weekends. If you also have a growing family to care for and need slightly larger (or more affordable) housing in a great neighborhood, you’ll be right at home.

You want a diverse neighborhood

The 17th arrondissement is rare in that it offers a wide range of tones and textures within one Paris arrondissement. Batignolles is trendy and village-like, Ternes is elegant and upscale, while Épinettes is more affordable and still up-and-coming.

There is growing diversity of cultures and cuisines, with new offerings opening constantly in this fast-growing neighborhood. And you’re right next to the Clichy and Pigalle areas—both diverse in culture and experiences—and the Saint-Lazare neighborhood is also home to various ethnic identities. 

You want to get in early

The 17th is very quickly becoming a popular, trendy neighborhood to live and spend time in. Seeing the arrondissement evolve around you—and being part of its evolution—can be a wonderful feeling. Some of the more traditional Paris neighbourhoods (like the 7th, 15th, 16th) feel a bit stuck in time, not keeping up as the city changes. 

Of course, there’s the influence on property prices to consider as well. For now, the 17th is reasonably inexpensive. But that’s unlikely to last, given its popularity. Even renting an apartment will be more affordable now than in the years to come, and you may wish to take advantage. 

You like the cafés, markets, & village vibe

For an arrondissement on the rise, the 17th already has an impressive food scene. Batignolles specifically has some excellent restaurants, organic markets, and lively cafés. 

There are clear signs of gentrification (in a good way), with vegan and vegetarian restaurants and specialty coffee shops popping up. And the Marché des Batignolles and Marché Poncelet are both well known for their fresh produce and gourmet shopping.

More generally, the area has a lovely local feel, particularly the further away from the busy Clichy or touristic Étoile you get. Compared to central arrondissements like the 1st, 4th, or 6th, the 17th really feels more like a village. It’s a place where locals live, work, and socialize, full of life without being anywhere near the tourist sites.

You want to be away from the rush, but not remote

The 17th is an outer arrondissement, and relatively far from the central city. This helps to keep much of the area calm, quiet, and free from the tourist crush. 

But depending on where you are in the 17th, you’re very well connected. And getting around is pretty easy. Metro lines 1, 2, 3, 6, 13, and 14, all touch parts of the neighborhood. You have easy access to Gare Saint-Lazare, Charles de Gaulle Airport, and La Défense. 

If you work on the right bank of the city, and particularly in the west, you’ll have no trouble getting wherever you need to go. 

The best reasons not to live in the 17th arrondissement

There aren’t too many downsides to life in the 17th. Those that do exist include:

The relative lack of green space

The 17th has two very nice parks: Square des Batignolles and Parc Clichy-Batignolles - Martin Luther King. The former is a cute, manicured park with ducks and small grassy patches to sit on. The latter is large and more modern, full of runners and power walkers on the weekends. But aside from these two spaces, there’s little else to suit people who love being outdoors. 

The 17th is not a particularly good neighborhood to run or take long walks in. Unlike the central city, you don’t have direct access to the Seine. And unlike the 12th, 16th, or 19th, there aren’t large parks to clock up the kilometers in. The neighborhood itself is nice for a stroll, but not if you’re serious about exercise or want to get away from the roads. 

The grimier areas

We’ve mentioned the trendy and very well kept parts of the 17th arrondissement, with Batignolles and Ternes at the top of the list. But there are also less inviting segments. 

The areas around Porte de Clichy, Porte de Saint-Ouen, and Porte d’Asnières feel a bit downtrodden—common for most of the city’s main entry/exit points. Place de Clichy can also be a bit intimidating late at night.

More broadly, the outskirts of the arrondissement feature much more modern architecture and high-capacity housing. Many people prefer the classic Parisian architecture and village feel which is available in the 17th—just not everywhere. 

The construction & development

It’s somewhat unusual to see major construction in a city as classic and old as Paris. But again, near the edges of the arrondissement (and just outside it), building works are common. 

Areas around Porte de Clichy and Pereire are still undergoing transformation, with construction projects and urban renewal in progress. Some of these include large apartment buildings that won’t appeal to all tastes, and there’s the potential to have noise and disturbances if you’re living nearby. 

The sleepy feel

While the 17th has great restaurants and cafés, it’s not a nightlife hotspot like the 10th, 11th, or Le Marais (3rd/4th). If you love bars, live music, and clubs, you’ll likely have to go elsewhere for fun after dark.

The good news, though, is that you don’t have to go far. The nearby Pigalle, South Pigalle (SoPi), and Montmartre areas all have plenty of the above to offer. Depending on where you are in the 17th, that’s a short walk or metro ride. 

And you may actually be happy not to live directly above a nightclub, or to have revellers stumbling down your street at all hours. 

Join the trendy parents & professionals in the 17th

As mentioned above, the 17th really is a paradise for young professionals and their families. It has all the necessary cafés, restaurants, and chic boulangeries you could need, but with housing and rental prices that can accommodate many. 

You have good—if not excellent—parks and squares to walk through, and the lovely village atmosphere that so many seek when moving to Paris. Perhaps most importantly, it’s a quiet arrondissement that remains well connected to the rest. You can have the peace and calm you crave, but don’t have to trade this off with a long commute and endless hours on the metro. If you work in the north or west of Paris—as so many people do—you’re actually in a very convenient spot. 

For now, the 17th continues to fly under the radar. But soon enough, this arrondissement will be just as trendy as SoPi or the 11th arrondissement.

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