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Paris’ 12th arrondissement: green spaces, fair prices, & a community vibe

Paris Attitude
| | Read : 6 min

The 12th arrondissement isn’t one of those Paris neighborhoods that most people rave about. At least, not from afar. But spend a little time here, and you’ll quickly see that there’s a lot to love.

 

It’s a practical, convenient area with great amenities, and perhaps the best access to nature of any Paris arrondissement

Because there are few real attractions, and due to its distance from the city center, many people overlook the 12th altogether. Which works in your favor as a potential future resident. 

Discover why the 12th has such exciting potential, plus the small handful of downsides to living in this lovely Paris neighborhood

 

About the 12th arrondissement

Interestingly, the 12th includes some of the oldest remnants of early settlers in the Paris area. Remains of a neolithic village from (likely from 3800-4500 BCE) have been found. But for much of antiquity, this area was a wetland and largely uninhabited by humans. 

It saw major urban development in the 1980s, including the building of the Opéra Bastille and the Ministry of Economy and Finance buildings.

Today it includes important cultural and sports venues, one of the city’s major train stations, and lots more to explore

Where is the 12th arrondissement? 

The 12th arrondissement is at Paris’ eastern edge. Its borders include: 

  • Place de la Bastille and Bassin de l’Arsenal down to the River Seine to the west. 
  • Rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine to the north, through Place de la Nation and along Cours de Vincennes to Porte de Vincennes and the Périphérique.
  • Boulevard de la Guyane to the east, around the edges of Bois de Vincennes, and down to the Seine again. (The bois is technically outside Paris, but the 12th arrondissement is the entry point.)
  • The banks of the Seine to the south.

What are the key attractions in the 12th arrondissement?

While there aren’t too many famous tourist sites to name, there is plenty to enjoy and explore.

  • Place de la Bastille and Place de la Nation, both pedestrian-friendly roundabouts that frequently feature demonstrations and protests. 
  • Accor Arena (also known as Bercy Arena), Paris’ largest indoor sports arena and the site of many major basketball games and concerts. 
    • The Promenade Plantée (also called La Coulée Verte)—a raised garden walkway similar to New York’s Highline.  
    • The Faubourg Saint-Antoine area, a historic Parisian neighborhood which features heavily in both “A Tale of Two Cities” (Charles Dickens) and “Les Misérables” (Victor Hugo).
  • The Opéra Bastille which, while less famous than the Palais Garnier in the 9th, is the headquarters of the National Opera of Paris. 

 

Opéra Bastille

  • Picpus Cemetery, where the Marquis of Lafayette is buried, along with a range of European royals and dukes.
  • Marché d’Aligre, a daily market (both indoor and out) for fresh produce, meat, cheese, wine, coffee, and many other highlights. 
  • Gare de Lyon, a major transport hub that connects Paris to Lyon, Marseille, Dijon, Geneva, Barcelona, and other destinations to the south and east.

The best reasons to live in the 12th arrondissement

What makes the 12th a great neighborhood to live in isn’t one or two specific features. It’s the full mix that sets it apart. 

Incredible green spaces

It’s normal to have limited parks and grassy areas in major cities. But residents of the 12th don’t have that issue. It’s home to the huge and beautiful Bois de Vincennes, Paris’ largest green space. The Bois has multiple lakes, walking and cycling paths, a zoo, and even a Buddhist temple. 

Parks like Parc de Bercy and the Promenade Plantée (a stunning garden walkway above the road) add to the neighborhood’s appeal, offering plenty of opportunities to enjoy fresh air and greenery. There’s also the Bassin de l’Arsenal (part of the Canal Saint-Martin), and the River Seine itself.

Living here, you’re never short of lovely spaces to jog, ride bikes, or walk your dog. And Parisians come from all over the city to do just that. 

The residential atmosphere

The 12th includes busy areas like Bastille and Nation. But for the most part, it feels like the tourist traffic and general hustle and bustle end at the borders of this arrondissement. Walk just a few blocks away, and things become quiet and more family friendly. 

Bastille

The 12th is ideal for those seeking a more laid-back lifestyle. It’s not a major business district, and most people leave the arrondissement for work each day. It’s popular with families, thanks to its good schools, spacious apartments, and calm, residential neighborhoods like Picpus and Bel-Air

But there’s also plenty to entertain young professionals. And you’re very close to the trendier 11th and 4th arrondissements, without dealing with their activity every day. 

Less tourist energy

Unlike more touristy arrondissements, the 12th has a distinctly local feel. Other than Bastille and the Bercy area during concerts or sports events, people on the street are mostly local to the area.

You’ll find bustling markets like Marché d’Aligre, where locals shop for fresh produce, cheese, and flowers, as well as traditional bakeries and unpretentious bistros. It’s a great place to experience authentic Parisian life and settle in as a new arrival.

Lower prices

Compared to more central and trendy districts, the 12th offers relatively affordable housing options. In fact, average house and rental prices here are fourth-lowest among arrondissements. Housing is also relatively dense—meaning there are lots of apartments for rent—but the green spaces and calm feel mean you won’t feel hemmed in. 

It’s an excellent choice for expats or newcomers seeking more space for their budget, whether renting or buying.

Excellent transport links

Like any major city, the commute is a key consideration. You need to be confident that you can get from where you are to where you need to be any time, with relative ease. Luckily, the 12th is served by several metro lines (1, 6, 8, and 14), making it easy to access the rest of the city. The 1 runs all the way to the La Défense business hub in the west, so you can cross the entire city without hassle to get to work

The 12th also features Gare de Lyon, one of Paris’ six major train stations. If you’re regularly planning to head south, this is an incredibly convenient station to live close to.

Why not live in the 12th arrondissement?

As always, the 12th isn’t a home run for everyone. Here are a few reasons why this neighborhood isn't at the top of every list. 

It’s not the coolest arrondissement

That’s obviously a subjective statement, but the 12th is undeniably less trendy than Le Marais, the 5th, or the 9th, 10th, and 11th arrondissements. For whatever reason—and to generalize broadly—it just doesn’t attract the same hipster, cool clientele. 

And yet, there are some great cafés, restaurants, and venues in the area. Ground Control is a key hangout, both for casual drinks and organized events. There are also popular bars along the Bassin de l’Arsenal

It’s a great neighborhood. But if you want to be in the heart of the action and closer to the Paris nightlife, the 12th may not quite meet your expectations. 

It’s a little out of the way

This one depends entirely on where you are in the 12th. Near Bastille, you’re essentially in central Paris and close to everything. But closer to the eastern border in Picpus or Bel-Air, it’s a decent journey to get to the rest of the city. 

Of course, the easy transport options mitigate this. But if you see yourself visiting the great monuments and galleries of Paris most days, you’ll have to factor in some travel time. And if you have friends in other parts of the city, you can expect them to consider your place more of an effort to visit. 

Few iconic attractions

It’s not just the Louvre or Eiffel Tower that seem far away. There are very few truly notable “sights” in the 12th—the kind you’ve read about or seen in the movies. It’s definitely more of a residential neighborhood than a must-visit for most newcomers to the city. 

While it boasts lovely parks and local gems, the 12th lacks the “wow factor” that some newcomers might expect from Paris.

Less architectural charm

Some parts of Paris have that romantic, clichéd feeling that features all over popular culture. And other parts are more industrial, built for livability and working people. The 12th is more the latter.

Certain parts of the 12th, such as the Bercy area, feature more modern architecture and large-scale developments. While some may appreciate the sleek, contemporary vibe, others might find it less charming or less quintessentially Parisian than Montmartre, the 5th, or the stately 7th and 16th arrondissements.

Conclusion

The 12th arrondissement is a perfect fit for those seeking a peaceful, green, and family-friendly neighborhood with excellent outdoor spaces and a more local Parisian lifestyle. 

It’s well-suited for expats who value a balance between city living and access to nature, as well as those looking for more affordable housing

But the quiet vibe, distance from central landmarks, and lack of a buzzing nightlife scene might not appeal to everyone. As always, your priorities and the accommodation options available will ultimately make your decision. 

 

 

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