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Paris’ 13th arrondissement: A low-cost, highly diverse neighborhood

Paris Attitude
| | Read : 5 min

If you haven’t lived or spent significant time in Paris before, you’ve probably never been to the 13th arrondissement. Even the most seasoned Paris visitors would have little reason to spend the day here.

There are virtually no major tourist attractions, and the neighborhood isn’t a bridge to any major parks, sports, or cultural facilities

And yet, the 13th may be the perfect choice to live in for two main reasons: affordability and diversity. We’ll explain both of these in full detail shortly. 

This guide explores the best reasons to consider living in the 13th arrondissement, as well as a few reasons why the neighborhood may not suit everyone. 

 

 

About the 13th arrondissement

In several ways, the 13th arrondissement feels very different to the rest of Paris. Compared with most of the city, the 13th features more high-rise buildings and modern architecture.

Some of its most famous sites—Bibliothèque Nationale de France and La Cité de la Mode et du Design, for example—were built in the 1980s or even much more recently. The huge Station F startup complex was only opened in 2017, and today is a major source of traffic to the arrondissement. 

Bibliothèque Nationale de France

 

This is quite unlike most of central Paris, where the buildings and institutions are often hundreds of years old and have a familiar look and feel.

The other major separator is the concentration of Asian commerce in the 13th. (We’ll look more at this shortly.) Ask Parisians why they visit the 13th, and “Chinatown” will inevitably be the top response. 

Where is the 13th arrondissement? 

The 13th sits within the following borders:

  • Rue de la Santé to the west
  • Boulevard de Port-Royal, Boulevard Saint-Marcel, and Boulevard de l’Hôpital to the north
  • The Seine river itself to the east
  • Boulevard Périphérique to the south

What are the main highlights of the 13th arrondissement?

The 13th isn’t full of world-famous landmarks. But there’s plenty to see and do, and many Parisians visit this neighborhood for a few unique reasons. 

  • The Quartier Asiatique, Paris’ principal “Chinatown” with restaurants and stores serving products from across Asia.
  • The François Mitterrand campus of Bibliothèque Nationale de France
  • Place d’Italie, a large public square and roundabout
  • La Cité de la Mode et du Design, a distinctive event venue and exhibition center. 
  • Piscine Joséphine Baker, an outdoor swimming pool on the banks of the Seine.
  • Station F, a large startup campus where much of Paris’ flourishing tech scene germinates.
  • Bars and events on the edge of the Seine, most notably Petit Bain

The best reasons to live in the 13th arrondissement

So should you consider moving to the 13th arrondissement? If the following factors appeal, it might just be a fit. 

Affordable housing

Honestly, this is typically the first reason people look to live in the 13th. As you get further from the tourist heart of Paris, rent and purchase prices start to come down. And compared with central Paris arrondissements, the 13th offers relatively spacious apartments at more reasonable prices. 

You’ll certainly get more for your budget here than in neighborhoods like Le Marais or Saint-Germain. In fact, the 13th is the third-most inexpensive arrondissement in the city (for property), followed only by the 19th and 20th

The Chinatown area

The 13th arrondissement is one of Paris’s most diverse districts in general. But it’s best known for its vibrant Asian community, centered around Avenue d’Ivry and Avenue de Choisy. With apologies to the Asian neighborhoods around Belleville and Arts et Métiers, the 13th is the best place for authentic Chinese, Vietnamese, Thai, and Laotian cuisine.

You’ll find fantastic street markets, supermarkets, and restaurants offering a taste of Asia every day of the week. And of course, the humming neighborhood reaches a fever pitch during Lunar New Year, with parades and food stalls taking over the already-busy streets.

Interesting art and cultural scene

The 13th doesn’t have the famous art galleries and museums of central Paris. But it does have a growing street art scene, with large murals on building walls throughout the district.

It’s also where you’ll find cultural institutions like La Cité de la Mode et du Design, a creative hub along the Seine, and the Bibliothèque François Mitterrand (national library), one of Paris’s most distinctive modern landmarks.

Entertainment on the Seine

Evening drinks or a light dinner on the banks of Paris’ famous Seine river is hard to beat. And one particular stretch in the 13th arrondissement is especially popular for that exact purpose. Opposite the Bibliothèque Nationale de France, you’ll find a great little collection of tapas and cocktail bars on the riverbank. There’s also the well-known Petit Bain, a lively barge with a popular rooftop. 

For more committed partygoers, clubs like Wanderlust and Flash Cocotte are staples of the local scene, sitting in and around La Cité de la Mode et du Design. Revellers come from all over the city for parties in these hot venues.

Key reasons not to live in the 13th arrondissement

Despite the above advantages, some people prefer not to live in the 13th. 

Lacks that classic Paris feeling

Paris is obviously known for a certain postcard quality, with consistent architecture and gorgeous small streets. And while Butte-aux-Cailles has a charming, village-like atmosphere, much of the rest of the 13th is missing that perfect Paris feeling most newcomers dream of.

If you dream of leaving your picturesque Paris apartment each morning, strolling the cobble-stoned streets, and passing the hours in quaint local squares, the 13th may not live up to this ideal.

Limited social activity

There are certainly a few choice bars, restaurants, and clubs, particularly along the Seine. But further in the heart of the 13th, you won’t find the vibrant nightlife or café culture you get in Le Marais or the 9th, 10th, and 11th arrondissements.

The Chinatown area is a key exception, of course, and is always busy and interesting. But otherwise, you’ll likely have to travel elsewhere to meet friends for brunch or “apéro” (afterwork drinks).

Few major attractions

Of course, this can be a major plus for some people. But if you hope to have friends and relatives visit regularly, you’re not in the most convenient place to show them around the city. This is one of the rare arrondissements where there are truly no tourist sites of note.  

Every outing will likely involve public transport or a taxi, and you may have the feeling that you’re a bit removed from the rest of Paris. Luckily, there are good metro and RER connections to get around the city. And Paris is quite a small city geographically. But the 13th is not central Paris, and you shouldn’t live here if that’s what you want. 

Some parts are a little too quiet

In most of central Paris, you’re never the only person out and about. If you’re walking home late at night, it can be reassuring to have bars open and a few other people and cars on the street. 

Parts of the 13th—particularly around the National Library complex—can be completely deserted at night. These are corporate, daytime spaces, and late at night there’s simply nothing happening. That can feel a bit eerie or disconcerting on those odd occasions when you’re out very late. 

Diversity & affordability: great reasons to live in the 13th

The 13th arrondissement is a great choice for those looking for a more affordable, multicultural, but still authentic Parisian experience. This working- and middle-class neighborhood is highly functional—more concerned with surviving and thriving than the glamor and chic lifestyles you find in some quarters.

It offers spacious apartments and cheaper rents, modern architecture, and just enough nightlife to keep you entertained. And the excellent Asian cuisine and accompanying stores are unmatched in most of Europe. 

If you’re open to a different side of Paris—one that blends tradition with modernity—the 13th might be the perfect fit.

 

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