Looking for an affordable, artistic, and diverse neighborhood in Paris? The 20th arrondissement is a vibrant mix of creativity, community, and culture, and a great choice for expats, young professionals, and creatives seeking a more local, offbeat experience.
With its eclectic food scene, thriving nightlife, and an ever-growing arts community, this district has a distinct energy that sets it apart from the more polished, tourist-heavy areas of the city.
But it’s not without its flaws—at least in the eyes of some. Parts can feel a bit run down or too noisy, and it’s further from the city center than other popular arrondissements.
Still, if you’re drawn to a dynamic, budget-friendly neighborhood with a strong personality, the 20th might just be the perfect place to call home. Read on to discover what makes this arrondissement unique, and determine whether it’s the right fit for you.
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About the 20th arrondissement
The 20th is broadly divided into four quarters: Belleville, Saint-Fargeau, Père-Lachaise and Charonne. And the differences between them can be quite noticeable.
Belleville is bustling, energetic, and noisy. It’s also incredibly diverse, as we’ll explore shortly. Charonne has a much more residential feel, and includes the quaint and beautiful Campagne à Paris (“countryside in Paris”) neighborhood near the very edges of the city.
Saint-Fargeau and Père-Lachaise are also residential and local-feeling, with nice farmers’ markets on the weekends and small, quiet streets.
With the exception of Père-Lachaise cemetery itself, the 20th is not a particularly touristy neighborhood—the list of key attractions below is very short. This arrondissement is primarily for Parisian residents and working people.
Parc de Bellevile / Crédit photo : unjourdeplusaparis.com
Where is the 20th arrondissement?
The 20th lies within the following borders:
- Boulevard de Charonne, Boulevard de Ménilmontant, and Boulevard de Belleville to the west
- Rue de Belleville to the north
- Boulevard Périphérique to the east
- Cour de Vincennes to the south
What are the main highlights of the 20th arrondissement?
Key attractions in the 20th include:
- Père-Lachaise cemetery, a popular tourist attraction including the tombs of Marcel Oscar Wilde, Marcel Proust, Édith Piaf, Gertrude Stein, and Jim Morrison.
- Parc de Belleville, an urban park with grassy areas and lots of stairs, plus Eiffel Tower views.
- The Belleville neighborhood, Paris’ second “Chinatown.”
- Music venues La Bellevilloise and La Maroquinerie, both regularly featuring international dance and hip hop acts.
- Church of Saint-Jean-Bosco, a rare art deco church in Paris, and Saint-Germain de Charonne, one of the oldest churches in the city.
This list is much shorter than most of our other arrondissement guides. The 20th is a mix of residential and working neighborhoods, and relatively free from tourists.
Père-Lachaise cemetery / Crédit photo : pariszigzag.fr
The best reasons to live in the 20th arrondissement
Why might you want to live in the 20th? Here are five good reasons.
Cultural diversity
The 20th is perhaps best known for the concentration of Asian food and grocery stores around Belleville metro. It’s not as large as the Chinatown in the 13th arrondissement, but it’s still quite extensive, and closer to the city center.
One of the best neighborhoods in Paris for Chinese, Thai, and Vietnamese food in particular, restaurants here are packed every night of the week. And it’s a go-to location for specialty items like tofu, chilli oils and sauces, and imported Asian products.
Ménilmontant, meanwhile, is a hotspot for couscous, tagines, and other North African and Levantine dishes.
The 20th is also home to large muslim, jewish, and Eastern European populations. As is common for Paris’ outer arrondissements, it’s a popular landing spot for recent immigrants and expats.
Cheaper rent & amenities
The cost of living in Paris is generally quite high, particularly compared with Southern and Western European cities. But certain segments of the city are more affordable than others, including much of the 20th.
For starters, the restaurants and grocery stores around Belleville are noticeably cheaper and more working class than many other food options in Paris. If you want a cost-effective, substantial meal, this is a great place to come.
Rent and property purchase prices are also among the lowest in the city. In fact, only the 19th has lower average prices. And while prices are gradually rising, you can still find larger apartments at more reasonable rates compared to the neighboring 10th, 11th, and 12th.
Art, music, & creativity
As one of the cheaper—and younger—arrondissements, the 20th has a distinctive bohemian, alternative vibe. It has long been a hub for artists, musicians, and creatives.
You’ll see street art, independent galleries, and quirky cafés, particularly in areas like Ménilmontant, Belleville, and Charonne. There are also local artisans’ workshops dotted around the area.
You’ll find up-and-coming young performers in the bars, poets and authors presenting their work in cafés and bookstores, and paintings by nearby artists in shops and restaurants.
Local feel & sense of community
Because there are so few tourists here, the 20th feels authentic, lived in, and local. Many people live and work within their neighborhoods, and love to support nearby small businesses and engage in community life.
There are also plenty of schools and activities for children. The quieter areas around Saint-Fargeau and Charonne are particularly family-friendly, but you’ll see people pushing strollers and young children walking to school all over the neighborhood.
Gradual gentrification
While the 20th remains a cheap and cheerful arrondissement, there are signs of hipsterism creeping in. It’s becoming more popular among young professionals, especially those with young families. Where the central city has become too expensive for many working couples, the 20th still has the liveliness and activity they want at a more affordable price—similar to the 17th and 18th.
As a result, specialty coffee shops, wine bars, craft beer bars, and sourdough bakeries are settling in. Which just adds to the already incredible and varied food and drinks available in this neighborhood.
Gentrification isn’t everyone’s cup of tea. But if you value certain luxuries—while generally keeping prices down—the 20th is a good place to find them.
Why not live in the 20th arrondissement?
While the 20th is a great landing spot for many, there are a few reasons why you might prefer other arrondissements.
Its “dodgy” reputation
The 20th is still a bit rough around the edges. Some areas—especially Belleville and Porte de Bagnolet—can feel gritty, noisy, and chaotic. There’s graffiti, litter, lots of construction, and street workers, all of which can make people stressed or unsafe.
This may be changing with gentrification. And Paris remains a safe place to live overall. But if you’re comparing the 20th with elite neighborhoods like the 6th, 7th, and 16th, you’ll find it less glamorous
Less classical charm
Whether or not the neighborhood is dangerous, you may also be struck by the differences in architecture and urban planning than you’re used to in Paris. The 20th is full of modern apartments, concrete buildings, and working-class housing, rather than the grand, elegant boulevards of the city center.
If you dream of classic Parisian architecture and charming cobblestone streets, much of the 20th won’t be the best fit.
Lack of key attractions
While parts of the 20th are noisy, hectic, and stressful, others are the complete opposite. Saint-Fargeau and Charonne, and Gambetta can almost feel too quiet for some people, with a relative lack of evening entertainment or key attractions.
Whether you’ll be happy here depends entirely on your own motivations. If you moved to Paris to see the Eiffel Tower or Notre-Dame every day, the 20th will likely disappoint. But if you want peace, quiet, and to live like a true local, the 20th delivers.
Can feel far away
Once again, this depends somewhat on where you live. Along the main boulevards of the western border, you’re not far at all from Canal St-Martin, Bastille, République, and other active parts of the city.
But the 20th is an outer arrondissement. And certainly, if you regularly need to get to the left bank, the Champs-Élysées, Saint-Germain, or La Défense, you’ll definitely be spending some time on the metro.
Public transport is pretty good, with metro lines 2, 3, 9, and 11. But living in the 20th means you’re a bit farther from the major attractions of Paris.
The 20th arrondissement: diversity, affordability & fun
The 20th arrondissement is one of the most affordable, culturally interesting, and diverse neighborhoods in Paris. Here you’ll find wonderful food, strong community spirit, and a growing nightlife scene.
It’s ideal for expats, young professionals, and creatives who want a local, offbeat experience. And those who want to avoid tourists will be thrilled.
But it’s not the most refined part of Paris, and some areas can feel gritty, less safe, and far from the city center. If you’re looking for a vibrant, budget-friendly place with a strong personality, the 20th could be a great home.
Explore the best apartments for rent in the 20th arrondissement.
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