10 short years ago, the 11th arrondissement was barely on the map for tourists or expats living in Paris. It had a few streets known for bars and parties, and some visitors would head to Place de la Bastille for its revolutionary history.
But today, this is one of the most vibrant, popular parts of the city. Particularly for young people in search of great bars and cuisine, and increasingly for tourists following the advice of food blogs and Tik Tok trends.
The 11th is now known as one of the places for creative dining and intriguing social activity. And that reputation is only growing.
This short guide explains where and what the 11th arrondissement is, and some of the best reasons to live here.
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About the 11th arrondissement
The 11th is the most densely populated arrondissement in Paris, with twice the number of inhabitants as jobs. In fact, it is reportedly one of the most densely populated urban areas in Europe.
At last count, around 150,000 people live in the 11th, but the majority work elsewhere in the city. And while certain streets and squares can feel busy at times, it doesn’t feel overly congested.
Where is the 11th arrondissement?
The 11th is bordered by the following streets and metro stations:
- Boulevard Beaumarchais to the west, from Bastille to République.
- République to Belleville to the north.
- Boulevard de Belleville, Boulevard de Ménilmontant, and Boulevard de Charonne to the northeast and east.
- Rue de Faubourg Saint-Antoine to the south, from Nation back to Bastille.
What are the key attractions in the 11th arrondissement?
Compared with the center of the city and the left bank, there’s a distinct lack of famous sites in the 11th arrondissement. Despite this, it’s a popular, busy and highly visited part of the city. Key attractions include:
- Three notable roundabouts and public squares: Bastille, République, and Nation.
- Bastille is well known as the site of the former jail, made famous during the French revolution.
- Popular nightlife neighborhoods around Bastille and Oberkampf.
- Atelier des Lumières, a hugely popular immersive art gallery on Rue Saint-Maur.
- Le Bataclan music venue.
- While there aren’t many famous museums, the 11th does include Musée Édith Piaf, Musée du Fumeur (smoking museum).
- On Thursdays and Sundays, the market at Bastille attracts a mix of locals and tourists from all over the world.
Place de la Bastille
That list may sound a little light, but this neighborhood is growing quickly in popularity thanks to its incredible mix of art, food, and evening activity.
The best reasons to live in the 11th arrondissement
So more concretely, why do local Parisians and visitors flock to the 11th, both to live and to play?
The vibrant nightlife and dining scene
The 11th arrondissement is arguably the epicenter of Parisian nightlife. From iconic spots like Rue Oberkampf and Bastille to trendy areas around Rue de Charonne, the 11th has countless bars, cocktail lounges, and music venues. And new ones seem to pop up every week.
If you enjoy evenings out, this is the perfect arrondissement to call home. It’s also a food lover’s paradise, with everything from Michelin-starred restaurants to hipster brunch spots and charming bistros.
Plenty of up-and-coming chefs open their first restaurants or complete residencies in the 11th, making it a great place to discover new cuisines from fresh faces.
The art and creativity
The 11th has a reputation as one of Paris’ most creative neighborhoods. While not home to many major museums, an abundance of independent art galleries, co-working spaces, and ateliers make it a magnet for artists, freelancers, and entrepreneurs. Streets like Rue de la Folie-Méricourt and Boulevard Voltaire are particular hotspots.
Recently, Atelier des Lumières has become a novel attraction for art lovers from all over the world. Projecting classic artworks from the likes of Van Gogh and Klimt, it was even featured in “Emily in Paris.”
The community vibe
Despite its size and popularity, the 11th still has a distinct community feel. Its local markets, such as Marché Popincourt and Marché Bastille, are a weekly treat for locals, and create a real neighborhood feeling.
The arrondissement has a real mix of families, students, and creatives, making for a diverse and welcoming atmosphere.
Middle class affordability
10 years ago, the 11th was considered a relatively cheap arrondissement, with affordable accommodation and lower-priced attractions. Today, like so many Paris neighborhoods, you can feel the effects of recent gentrification (more on this shortly).
But unlike the truly chic Paris neighborhoods, the 11th still offers relatively affordable options. Particularly when compared to neighboring districts like the 3rd or 4th. This makes it especially appealing for young professionals and expats on a budget.
You’ll still find apartments to rent and buy at a fair price, particularly considering how popular and convenient this arrondissement is.
Why not live in the 11th arrondissement?
So why do some people prefer not to live in this trendy neighborhood? The 11th may not be a fit for you if:
You want that “postcard” Paris
There is plenty of beauty and wonder in the 11th arrondissement. But for the most part, it doesn’t contain the storybook streets you find in Montmartre or the 5th arrondissement. There are still many old buildings and even some cobblestoned streets, but they’re blended in with more modern architecture.
If you want to be fully surrounded by Haussmannian apartments, quaint quiet corners, and the reminders of childhood films, you should start with other arrondissements.
You need green spaces
For dog walkers, joggers, and cyclists, the 11th may also not be the best fit. There are a few options: Square de la Roquette, Jardin Truillot, and the large Boulevard Richard Lenoir all have playgrounds and grassy areas. You’re also right next to Père Lachaise cemetery—which doesn’t allow bikes or joggers but is great for exploring—and you’re really not too far from the Seine.
But if you crave open green spaces and areas free from traffic, they’re few and far between here.
You’re worried about gentrification
For some, gentrification will be a benefit. There’s an endless stream of new coffee shops, craft beer bars, and interesting shops and galleries opening in the 11th. But house and rental prices are also rising quickly.
Even relatively recently, the 11th was considered an “affordable” arrondissement. That’s not the case for many people today. And the cost of living here is creeping up steadily.
You’re allergic to tourists
The 11th is far from the most “touristic” arrondissement. It’s probably not even in the top ten. But the arrondissement’s proximity to major landmarks like Place de la Bastille and Père Lachaise means parts of the 11th can feel overrun with tourists, especially during peak travel seasons. If you prefer a quieter, more residential vibe, this may not be the best arrondissement for you. (You may in fact be better off in the Paris suburbs.)
It’s also a noticeably expat-friendly neighborhood, and you’ll hear lots of English spoken. Again, that could be a benefit for some, but if you want a fully immersive French experience, you may get frustrated by how quickly people expect to speak English with you.
Conclusion
The 11th arrondissement is a dynamic and creative district with a thriving nightlife, diverse dining scene, and rich history. It’s an ideal choice for expats and newcomers seeking an energetic and culturally vibrant neighborhood.
While the noise, limited green spaces, and ongoing gentrification may not suit those looking for tranquility or a more traditional Parisian feel, it’s without doubt a modern, exciting part of the city.
As always, spending a little time in the area is the only real way to know if the 11th makes sense for your priorities and lifestyle.
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