The 19th arrondissement remains a hidden gem among Paris neighborhoods. Because of its unusual architecture and historically undesirable reputation, most people tend to explore other options before living in the 19th.
But that may be a mistake. This area offers an incredible mix of affordable housing, wonderful outdoor spaces, and diverse culture that few others in Paris can match. It’s ideal for families, young professionals, first home buyers, and virtually anyone.
This article identifies the best aspects of life in the 19th arrondissement, and some of the reasons why certain people may prefer settling elsewhere.
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About the 19th arrondissement
The 19th is a firmly residential neighborhood, and one of the fastest-growing arrondissements in terms of population. While many arrondissements—most notably the 7th—have been in population decline since the 1950s, the 19th has grown, and continues to see new housing and economic development.
Much of the arrondissement was developed in the 1970s and 80s, and the architecture has a more modern, utilitarian feel. You’ll find some classic Hausmannian buildings, but you’ll also find brutalist apartment complexes that divide many locals—the Orgues de Flandre is a key example.
Orgues de Flandre / Crédit photo : Architecture photographer's blog
But most people know the 19th for its two special parks, and the beautiful canal that splits it down the middle.
Where is the 19th arrondissement?
The 19th is defined by the following borders:
- Rue d’Aubervilliers to the west
- Boulevard Périphérique to the north and east
- Rue de Belleville to the south-east
- Boulevard de la Villette to the south-west
What are the main highlights of the 19th arrondissement?
The 19th isn’t home to any major tourist attractions. But it welcomes scores of Parisians every weekend who come to the following sites:
- Bassin de la Villette and Canal de l’Ourcq, which connect to Canal Saint-Martin in the 10th arrondissement.
- Parc de la Villette, a modernist park constructed in the 1980s on both sides of the canal, with green spaces, events venues, dog parks, and children’s playgrounds.
- Parc des Buttes Chaumont, a more classically beautiful city park, hilly and popular with runners and walkers.
- Music venues the Cabaret Sauvage, La Trabendo, and Le Zénith, each catering to different musical styles and sizes of crowd.
- The Cité des Sciences et de l'Industrie, a museum and exhibition centre, and the attached iMax cinema complex.
- The renowned Conservatoire de Paris music school, the Philharmonie de Paris, and the Musée de la Musique.
- The Cent Quatre arts centre and events space.
Cité des Sciences et de l'Industrie / Crédit photo : Eurolines.fr
The best reasons to live in the 19th arrondissement
As mentioned, the 19th is one of the rare growing Paris arrondissements. Here are a few key reasons:
The property and rental prices
The first thing that draws people here are the property prices. The 19th has the lowest average property prices of any arrondissement in Paris—by a fair margin. Despite having a lot to offer and a wide range of housing options, it has historically been a very working class neighborhood.
And unlike the neighboring 18th arrondissement with the famous Montmartre hill, there’s no iconic destination or priceless views driving costs up.
But there are wonderful places to live to suit all tastes. The area around Parc des Buttes Chaumont is lovely, as are both sides of the Canal de L’Ourcq.
The parks and outdoor spaces
Quality outdoor space is a real luxury in a densely populated city like Paris. The 19th is lucky to have two exceptional parks: Parc des Buttes Chaumont and Parc de la Villette.
The former is an aesthetic delight, built around a man-made lake with a waterfall and a high lookout overhead. The latter is more functional, with large lawns to play football or picnic on, and exercise and event spaces dotted throughout.
The 19th also sits around Canal de l’Ourcq, immensely popular to walk or jog along, or to share a drink with friends and family. You’d be hard pressed to find a more varied array of outdoors areas to enjoy in one Paris neighborhood.
The local appeal
The 19th is of Parisians—diverse, but still very much lived in and local. While there’s plenty to see and do here, it’s not on the tourist trail at all. It’s a long distance from the Eiffel Tower and Arc de Triomphe, and you’re very unlikely to find tour groups absorbing the sites.
But it can still be busy—particularly in summer. The canals overflow with small boats cruising idly up and down, and the banks are full of groups playing petanque, enjoying a rosé or two, or wandering aimlessly along the waterways.
The same is true for Parc des Buttes Chaumont and Parc de la Villette. This is a popular and lively area to visit, but mainly for those in the know.
Parc des Buttes Chaumont
The family-friendliness
As a residential neighborhood with cheap accommodation, the 19th is particularly welcoming to young families. You’re more likely to find a generously-sized apartment for your growing family here than in most of the city.
There are plenty of schools, nurseries, and after-school activities, and you’ll notice plenty of young children and parents with strollers.
The two parks are a huge benefit to families, particularly Parc de la Villette. This has multiple children’s playgrounds, much larger and more adventurous than most. It also has the Cité des Sciences et de l'Industrie science museum, a hands-on learning experience for all ages. Even the local Pathé cinema shows a wider array of children’s films than most.
The diversity
The 19th is a homebase for a range of different cultural identities and ethnicities. Around Ourcq, there’s a concentration of jewish schools and grocery stores. Off Avenue de Flandres, you’ll find mosques and muslim education centers, and there are christian churches all over the neighborhood.
It’s one of the most culturally diverse areas of the city, with strong North African, Chinese, and West African influences reflected in its restaurants, markets, and community events. It’s also a politically eclectic area, home to the Communist Party headquarters, “democratic” preschools, and interesting community centers.
Why you may not want to live in the 19th arrondissement
Despite its growing popularity, this area isn’t for everyone. Here are a few reasons why:
The lack of classic charm
Everyone has their ideal picture of Paris in mind. And for most, it doesn’t look like much of the 19th. Similar to the 12th and 13th arrondissements, it’s an area featuring far more recent development, and far less of that traditional Paris architecture.
If that’s a priority for your new life in Paris, you’ll probably be happier on the left bank or in the central city. But don’t rush to judgement. Once you’ve seen the gorgeous pink sunset on Bassin de la Villette, you may change your mind.
The somewhat unsavory areas
While the 19th is gentrifying quickly, certain areas still have a reputation for petty crime, drug-related activity, and urban grit. Stalingrad is famous in Paris as a drug hotspot, as are Riquet and parts of Belleville.
Paris is known as a largely safe city, and every big city has its less appealing areas. But you don’t see these in the 7th or 16th, and it’s something to keep in mind when choosing a neighborhood to live in.
The quieter social scene
The 19th is not yet famous for its nightlife and bar scene—although this may be changing. While there are some popular bars and cultural spaces, it doesn’t have the same buzzing nightlife as areas like the 10th, 11th, or Le Marais.
If you love being in the heart of the action, you may find yourself traveling elsewhere for nights out.
But there are key exceptions. Cabaret Sauvage is an immensely popular club for electronic music, and there are busy barges on the canal running all-night parties. There are also great craft beer pubs like Paname and L’Atalante, and the popular Belushi’s sports pub (and hostel).
People come to the 19th for evening entertainment, just not quite at the rate of the top areas.
The distances from key sites
If you work or spend ample time in the north or east of Paris, the 19th is well connected and relatively close. But if you regularly need to reach the west, near Arc du Triomphe or La Défense, you can expect to spend a lot of time on the metro.
Paris isn’t a huge capital city like London, so travel times—even across the city—are almost always manageable. But living in any of the outer arrondissements requires a little bit of forethought.
The 19th arrondissement: rich opportunities at the right price
The 19th arrondissement is one of the best areas in Paris for affordability, green spaces, and a local, multicultural atmosphere. It’s a great choice for families, creatives, and anyone looking for more space and outdoor activities.
Some areas still feel rough around the edges, and it lacks the classic charm and vibrant nightlife of more central districts. So it’s usually not at the top of most people’s dream arrondissement list.
But if you want a laid-back, diverse, and budget-friendly neighborhood with incredible parks, the 19th could be a perfect fit!
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